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Most men buy beard oil for the wrong reason. They think it’ll grow their beard. It won’t — and I’ll be straight with you about that further down. What good beard oil does do is just as valuable: it softens coarse hair, stops the itch and flaking in the first few weeks, tames the wiry strays, and keeps the skin underneath from drying out. A well-oiled beard looks fuller and behaves — even if it’s the exact same beard.
After twenty years of grooming beards, here’s what I’d actually put on a client’s face — the best all-in-one kit, the best oil at two price points, the best balm for hold, and the honest truth about “growth” products. Every pick is verified, and I’ll tell you what each one is really for.
My top picks at a glance
| Product | Best for | Why I picked it | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Viking Revolution Ultimate Beard Kit | Best complete kit | Oil, balm, brush, comb and scissors in one box — everything a beard needs to start. | Check price → |
| Jack Black Beard Oil | Best premium oil | Light, fast-absorbing and barely scented — the one that feels like a proper grooming product. | Check price → |
| Viking Revolution Beard Oil | Best budget oil | Argan and jojoba base that does the job for a few quid — the easiest way to start. | Check price → |
| Honest Amish Beard Balm | Best for hold & styling | All-natural balm that tames strays and gives a light hold — for beards that need shaping. | Check price → |
| The Beard Club Growth Kit | Best for a patchy beard | A derma roller (the one thing with real evidence) plus conditioning oil — read my honest note. | Check price → |
Key takeaways
- Beard oil conditions and softens — it does not grow hair. Anyone claiming otherwise is selling you a story.
- Oil is for the skin and softness; balm is for hold and shaping. Many men use both.
- Check the label for real carrier oils (jojoba, argan) near the top, not cheap fillers.
- Patchy beard? A derma roller has some real evidence — oil alone won’t fill the gaps.
1. Viking Revolution Ultimate Beard Kit — best complete kit
| In the box | Beard oil, balm, boar-bristle brush, wooden comb, scissors |
| Ingredients | Argan & jojoba oil base |
| Best for | Anyone starting out who wants everything at once |
If you’re new to beard care, don’t buy five separate things — get a kit. This one has the lot: an oil to soften and condition, a balm to shape and hold, a boar-bristle brush to train the hair and spread the product, a comb, and scissors for stray long hairs. It’s the cheapest way to find out what you actually use day to day, and it makes a genuinely good gift for a bearded mate.
Watch out for: the oil and balm are solid rather than spectacular — fine for most beards. If you get fussy about scent or feel later, upgrade the oil (see the Jack Black below) and keep using the brush and comb, which are the real keepers.
2. Jack Black Beard Oil — best premium oil
| Feel | Light, fast-absorbing, not greasy |
| Scent | Very subtle — good for the office and for sensitive noses |
| Best for | Men who want a refined oil and dislike heavy fragrance |
When a client wants the “nice” one, this is what I hand them. It absorbs quickly and leaves the beard soft without that heavy, wet look some oils give you, and the scent is so light it won’t clash with your cologne. It costs more than a basic oil, but a bottle lasts months because you only need a few drops. It’s the oil that feels like an actual grooming product, not an afterthought.
Watch out for: if you love a strong, sandalwood-y beard scent, this will feel too plain — it’s deliberately understated. That’s a feature for most men, a downside for a few.
3. Viking Revolution Beard Oil — best budget oil
| Ingredients | Argan & jojoba oil |
| Scent | A few options, mostly light and clean |
| Best for | Trying beard oil for the first time without spending much |
You don’t need to spend a lot to feel the difference oil makes, especially in the itchy early weeks of growing a beard. This one uses a proper argan and jojoba base, does the softening and anti-itch job well, and costs about the price of a coffee. It’s the bottle I’d tell a first-timer to grab to see whether beard oil is for them — and most people stick with oil after they try it.
Watch out for: the scents can be a touch stronger than the premium oils, and the feel isn’t quite as refined. For the money, that’s an easy trade.
4. Honest Amish Beard Balm — best for hold and styling
| Type | Leave-in balm — conditions and lightly holds |
| Ingredients | All-natural oils and butters, beeswax for hold |
| Best for | Medium-to-long beards that need taming and shape |
Oil softens; balm shapes. Once your beard gets past stubble, you’ll want something to keep the strays down and hold the shape you’ve combed in — that’s balm. This one is a cult favourite for a reason: it’s genuinely all-natural, the beeswax gives a light, non-crunchy hold, and the butters keep the beard conditioned at the same time. Warm a little between your palms and work it through.
Watch out for: it’s a natural product, so the scent is earthy and the texture is firm — you have to melt it in your hands first. If you want strong, gel-like hold for a big styled beard, you’d want a dedicated wax instead.
5. The Beard Club Growth Kit — best for a patchy beard (honest take)
| In the kit | Derma roller + conditioning beard oil |
| What actually helps | The roller (micro-needling) — some real evidence; the oil keeps skin healthy |
| Best for | Patchy beards, if you’re realistic and patient |
Let me be honest, because most sites won’t: no oil grows a beard. If your genes gave you a patch, a bottle of “beard growth oil” won’t fill it. The one thing with actual evidence behind it is a derma roller — rolling tiny needles over the skin can stimulate the follicles, the same idea used for scalp hair. This kit pairs a roller with a conditioning oil, which is the sensible combination: the roller does the work, the oil keeps the skin healthy while you’re at it.
Watch out for: it is not magic and it is not fast — think months of consistent use, and it can’t create hair where there’s simply no follicle. Go in with realistic hopes and you may see a fuller, thicker patch; expect a miracle and you’ll be disappointed. If you’d rather work with the beard you have, see our guide to patchy beard styles instead.
How to choose beard oil (and what to ignore)
The beard oil aisle is full of marketing. Here’s what actually matters.
1. Read the carrier oils, not the claims
A good oil is mostly carrier oils — jojoba and argan are the gold standard because they’re close to your skin’s own oils and absorb cleanly. If the first ingredients are cheap fillers or you can’t pronounce them, skip it. Ignore any “grows your beard” wording entirely.
2. Oil or balm — or both
Oil conditions the hair and the skin under it, and kills the itch. Balm does that plus gives light hold to shape the beard. Short beard: oil is plenty. Longer beard you want to keep tidy: add a balm.
3. Go easy on scent
A little scent is nice; a lot is a headache by lunchtime and can clash with your cologne. When in doubt, pick a light or unscented oil — you can always add fragrance elsewhere.
4. Patchy beard? Be realistic
No topical product creates follicles you don’t have. Derma rolling has some evidence and is worth a patient try; beyond that, the best move is often a style that flatters what you’ve got.
How to use beard oil the right way
Most men use too much and put it on at the wrong time. Here’s the routine I give clients:
- Do it after a shower. Warm, clean, towel-dried hair (damp, not soaking) takes the oil best and the pores are open.
- Use a few drops, not a puddle. Stubble: 2–3 drops. Full beard: 5–8. You can add more; you can’t take it back.
- Work from the skin out. Rub it into your palms, then massage into the skin first, then down the hair — the skin is where the itch lives.
- Comb or brush it through. This spreads the oil evenly and trains the hair to lie right.
- Add balm if you’re styling. A little balm on top holds the shape for the day.
Got the care sorted but your beard shape isn’t sharp? That comes down to the trim — see my picks for the best beard trimmer for men.
Frequently asked questions
Does beard oil actually work?
Yes — for what it’s really for. Beard oil softens coarse hair, stops the itch and flaking (especially in the first few weeks of growth), tames strays and moisturises the skin underneath. It makes a beard look and feel better. What it does not do is grow new hair.
Does beard oil grow your beard?
No. Beard oil conditions the hair and skin; it can’t create follicles you don’t have. The only topical approach with some real evidence for a patchy beard is a derma roller (micro-needling), used consistently over months — and even that has limits.
Beard oil or beard balm — which do I need?
Oil for softening and skin health; balm for that plus light hold to shape the beard. A short beard usually only needs oil. Once it’s long enough to need taming, add a balm.
How often should I use beard oil?
Once a day is plenty for most men, ideally after a shower. If your skin or beard is very dry, or the weather is cold, you can add a lighter second application. Daily use is what keeps the itch away.
How many drops of beard oil should I use?
Start small: 2–3 drops for stubble, 5–8 for a full beard. Too much leaves the beard greasy and heavy. You can always add a drop more — begin light.
The bottom line
New to beard care? Start with the Viking Revolution kit — it gives you everything to learn what you use. Want the nicest oil, get the Jack Black; want to try oil cheaply, the Viking oil does the job. Beard long enough to shape? Add the Honest Amish balm. And if you’re battling a patchy beard, the derma roller kit is the only honest “growth” option worth a patient try — just keep your expectations real.
Bottom line from the chair: oil and balm make the beard you have look its best. That’s worth doing — and it’s most of the battle.
About the author
Khamis Maiouf is a professional hairstylist with over 20 years behind the chair and the founder of Book of Barbering. He grooms beards every week and would rather tell you the honest truth about a product than sell you a false promise.
